How To Guides / 7 minute read

Reading the signs before a Kwikee entry step drops out under load

A Kwikee electric step usually gives way under load because the linkage pivots wore out, not because the motor failed. The noises that come first, why LA County storage lots kill bushings, and replacement at $400 to $2,000.

A step that gives way is a linkage failure, not a motor failure

When an electric entry step sags or drops a couple of inches the moment somebody puts weight on it, the first thing almost every owner asks for is a motor. It is the wrong part about eighty percent of the time. A Kwikee step is a four bar linkage. The gearmotor swings it, but once the step is extended the load path runs through the pivot pins, the bushings at each pivot, the linkage arms, and the bolts holding the mounting frame to the chassis. The motor is barely in the picture.

That matters because a gearmotor is a bolt on part and a worn linkage is not. When pivot clearance opens up, the step still deploys, still retracts, still sounds normal at the door, and then travels a half inch under a 200 pound load because the slop has to go somewhere. Replace the motor and the sag is exactly the same, which is how owners end up paying twice.

The second misread is treating it as cosmetic. A step that drops under load is a step that is on its way to folding sideways, and it does that with somebody standing on it, usually at night, usually with hands full. Once there is measurable movement, it is a structural item on the coach and not a convenience item.

The three noises a Kwikee makes before it lets go

The first is a single click or knock at the beginning of deployment that was not there last year. That is a pivot pin taking up clearance before the arm starts to move. It is the earliest thing you can hear and the cheapest thing to fix, and it is almost always dismissed as normal because the step still works perfectly.

The second is a grind or a dry squeal partway through travel, usually on the extend stroke and worse on the first cycle of the morning. That is a bushing that has lost its grease and is now running metal on metal, so it is cutting an oval into a round pin. Once the bore is oval the bushing cannot be brought back by lubrication, and lubricating it only quiets the symptom while the wear accelerates.

The third is a thump when the step reaches full extension, which means the linkage is arriving at its stop with slack in the joints instead of pulling up tight against it. If you have that noise, put a hand under the outer edge of the tread and lift. Any vertical play you can feel with one hand is enough to fail the step under a person. Also look at the mounting bolts through the frame: elongated holes and rust streaking below the heads mean the frame is moving, which is a different and more expensive problem.

Why an open storage lot in LA County kills the pivots first

The entry step is the lowest assembly on the coach and the only one that lives inside the dust layer. A coach parked on gravel or decomposed granite in an uncovered San Gabriel Valley lot sits in that layer for months. Every extend and retract cycle drags abrasive grit across pivots that are supposed to be running on grease, and grit plus grease is a lapping compound.

Heat finishes the job. Summer surface temperatures under a coach in LA County are high enough, for long enough, that the factory grease in the pivots thins and migrates out over a few seasons. Then the winter storms wet the joints, the water sits because there is no cover and no airflow under a stationary coach, and surface rust starts inside the bore. A step that is cycled daily on a trip stays wet for minutes. A step that is cycled twice a season in a storage lot stays wet for days.

Sprinklers are the local detail nobody plans for. Lot irrigation aimed at a hedge puts mineral laden water on the underside of a coach every other evening, and the pivot bores are the first thing it finds. If your storage row has sprinkler heads, your step is aging faster than the same step on a coach twenty feet away.

Bushings and a control unit against a whole step assembly

Caught at the click. Pivot pins, bushings and hardware are inexpensive parts and the work is access and reassembly. The rust and corrosion repair band, $400 to $3,500 across 2 to 14 hours, covers cleaning and treating the mounting frame and linkage while it is apart. Doing pins and bushings before the bores go oval is the single highest value maintenance item on the whole entry assembly.

Caught at the grind. Once bores are oval the arms are consumable, and at that point replacing the step is usually cheaper than rebuilding it. Entry step replacement runs $400 to $2,000 across 2 to 8 hours. If the step is intermittent rather than mechanically loose, the fault often sits in the door switch, the control unit or the harness, which is 12 volt electrical repair at $285 to $5,000 plus, or wiring and fuse panel repair at $400 to $5,500 when the run back to the panel is compromised.

Caught after it folded. When a step collapses it takes the mounting frame with it and frequently tears the mounting points in the chassis outrigger. That becomes structural welding and fabrication at $750 to $20,000 plus, and the step is then the small line on the invoice. Same assembly, three prices, and the noise that would have prevented all of it was audible two years earlier.

Series numbers, and what the Kwikee channel does to a two week job

Kwikee is a Lippert brand, and the useful thing to know is that the step you have is a specific series with specific geometry. The series number is on a tag or stamped on the mounting frame, and it dictates the arm length, the travel, the tread width, whether the step is single or double, and which control unit it speaks to. Ordering by coach make and model year alone produces the wrong part more often than not.

Current series steps, control units and door switches generally move inside a week through the Lippert channel. Older series are where calendars slip: superseded assemblies sometimes require a conversion kit to mate a current step to an older mounting frame and harness, and those kits run 2 to 4 weeks. Motor and gear assemblies for discontinued series can be longer than the step itself, which is another reason full replacement often wins on time.

Two policy items to plan around. Parts of $100 or less carry 100 percent markup and parts over $100 carry 35 percent, so a linkage rebuild is priced mostly in labor while a replacement step is priced mostly in parts. Special order items take a 100 percent deposit at order and it is non refundable, so we confirm the series off the tag before anything is ordered. Systems work like this sits in a 3 business day to 2 week window.

Is a collapsed step a claim or a maintenance bill?

A step that wore out is a maintenance bill. Pivot wear from grit, heat and time is the textbook definition of what a policy excludes, and filing on it wastes a week and sometimes triggers an inspection you did not want.

Where coverage genuinely applies is impact. Steps get taken off by curbs, parking blocks, speed humps at storage lot gates, and by being left extended when the coach moved. Those have a direction and a witness mark, and they are covered like any other collision item. If a step is bent rather than loose, that is your case, and photographs of the curb or block matter as much as photographs of the step.

The third case is liability rather than physical damage. If somebody was hurt when the step gave way, the documentation of the failure becomes the file, and it needs to be photographed before anything is disassembled. Tell us that on the phone so the step comes apart in the right order and nothing gets thrown away.

Load test the step this weekend, then book a bay

Extend the step and listen to it with the door open and the radio off, once cold and once after three cycles. Note any click at the start, any squeal midway, any thump at full extension. Then grip the outboard corner of the tread and try to move it vertically and laterally with the step deployed and nobody standing on it. Any play you can produce by hand is a finding.

The safe owner side of the line is short and worth doing. Clean the grit off the linkage, grease the pivots with a proper grease rather than a spray lubricant, and check the mounting bolts for elongated holes and rust streaks. What is not owner work is splicing the control unit harness, cutting into the 12 volt run, or welding anything on the mounting frame or the chassis outrigger. Those come to the shop, because a bad ground or a bad weld on a step that carries people is not a place to experiment.

We are 18.4 miles from Hacienda Heights, 24 to 38 minutes via SR-60 west to Fullerton Road, and every part of this job is done in the bay at the Yorba Linda facility. Call (949) 799-3387 with the series number off the step tag and a note on which of the three noises you have. The RV systems estimate is $150 and it is credited to an authorized repair.

Same symptom on your vehicle

Describe it and we will tell you what it usually turns out to be. We are 18.4 miles from Hacienda Heights, 24 to 38 minutes via SR-60 west to Fullerton Rd, then south to La Palma Ave.