# Slide Out Motor and Gear Repair: Cost, Hours and Process in Hacienda Heights Slide out motor and gear repair covers the 12 volt drive motor, its planetary gearbox, the output shaft and coupling, and the brake or shear device that holds a room in position. Motors rarely die of age. They die of load, which is why the current draw gets read before a motor gets replaced. ## Specifications - Price band: $500 to $5,500 - Shop hours: 3 to 24 hours - Turnaround tier: Systems and electrical - Insurance billable: no - Parts lead time: In stock for common Lippert and Power Gear 12 volt motors, 10 to 20 business days for gearboxes and integrated brake assemblies - OEM brands: Lippert, Power Gear, HWH, Schwintek, Dometic, BAL Accu-Slide ## What a slide motor actually is, and what it is not A slide out motor is a small permanent magnet 12 volt DC motor bolted to a high reduction planetary or worm gearbox. The motor spins fast and weak, the gearbox turns that into slow and strong, and something downstream holds the room where the motor left it. On many assemblies the holding function is built into the gearbox as a brake; on others it is a shear device designed to fail before the rack does. Two practical consequences follow. First, the motor is a commodity and the gearbox is not. A motor case can look perfect while the gearbox output splines are rounded off inside, and that assembly will hum happily and move nothing. Second, the motor has almost no ability to survive abuse: everything upstream of it in the load path can bind, and the only thing the motor can do about it is draw more current until a thermal cutout opens or a brush pack burns. So the honest framing is that a slide motor is a sensor as much as an actuator. What it draws tells you what the rest of the system is doing. A shop that treats it purely as a wear part sells a lot of second motors. ## The failure sequence inside the assembly Failures here run in a predictable order and knowing the order shortens the diagnosis considerably. It starts upstream: a roller collapses, a rail bends, a seal takes a set and drags, or the room goes slightly out of square. Nothing about the motor has changed yet. The motor answers by drawing more current. Higher current means more heat in the windings, and the first visible symptom is usually the thermal cutout pattern: the room travels partway, stops, and will go again after several minutes. Owners read this as a weak motor. It is a correctly functioning protection device telling you about drag. If that goes unaddressed, one of three things ends the assembly. The brush pack wears out and the motor loses torque or stops. The gearbox output splines or the coupling shear under repeated peak load, which produces the hum with no motion. Or the holding brake glazes and lets the room creep, which is the least common and the most alarming to discover on a grade. Replacing the motor at that point restores function and leaves the drag in place, so the new assembly begins the same sequence immediately. That is the whole argument for reading the load before buying the part. - Upstream drag: roller, rail, seal set or a room out of square - Elevated current draw, no visible symptom yet - Thermal cutout cycling, misread by owners as a weak motor - Brush wear, gearbox spline failure or coupling shear - Holding brake glazing, seen as a room that creeps inward on its own ## Reading the circuit before condemning the motor The diagnosis is electrical first because it is cheap and it eliminates the most expensive wrong turn. Voltage is read at the motor terminals under load rather than at the battery, because a slide circuit that measures 12.6 volts at rest can sag well below the motor's usable range under a thirty amp breakaway draw through a corroded ground. That single measurement resolves a surprising share of no move complaints without a part. Corroded grounds, a tired house battery bank, a failing solenoid or a switch with burned contacts all present exactly as a dead motor to an owner, and all four are cheaper than a motor. If the motor has rated voltage and does not turn, it is the motor or the gearbox, and the manual override separates them: an override that turns the room by hand with normal effort clears the mechanical path and convicts the electrical side, while an override that fights you means the load is real. Current is then logged across a full cycle so the shape of the curve, not just its peak, goes into the file. ## Cost, hours and why this leaf carries the diagnostic charge The band on this page runs from a switch, ground and connector repair at the low end to a motor, gearbox and coupling assembly with the upstream drag corrected at the high end. Labor bills at the mechanical and electrical rate of $260 per hour across roughly three to twenty four hours, and access is again the swing factor: some motors are two bolts and twenty minutes, others are behind a bed platform or reached from underneath. Because the correct answer here is produced by measurement rather than by inspection, this leaf uses the in depth diagnostic tier at one hour of $285, credited against an authorized repair, rather than the systems estimate. You are paying for the reading that tells you whether the motor is the problem or the messenger. One more practical note. Where a motor has already failed, ask about the manual override before you plan travel. Most systems have one, most owners have never used theirs, and knowing whether yours works changes whether a stuck room is an inconvenience or a tow. ## Not included - We do not replace a motor without reading the load that killed it. A motor is the report, not usually the cause. - Controller module and harness faults on in-wall gear systems are addressed on the Schwintek page, where the fault code logic belongs. - House battery and charging faults that present as a slow slide are onboard electrical work, quoted separately. ## Questions **The motor hums but the room does not move. What is that?** Almost always a mechanical disconnect between the motor and the room: a stripped gearbox output, a sheared coupling, or a shear device that did its job. The motor is spinning and nothing downstream is receiving it. The useful diagnostic is the manual override. If the room moves by hand, the mechanical path is intact past the failure point and the break is at the drive coupling. **Can a slide out motor be rebuilt, or does it have to be replaced?** In practice it is replaced. Brushes and bearings are not serviceable on most RV slide motors, and the labor to open one exceeds the cost of the assembly. The gearbox is sometimes a separate part number from the motor, which is worth checking, because replacing only the failed half of an assembly is occasionally a meaningful saving. **Can a weak house battery make the slide act like the motor is failing?** Yes, and it is one of the most common false alarms we see. A slide draws a large breakaway current. A tired bank or a corroded ground sags the voltage at the motor terminals under that load even though it reads fine at rest, and the motor responds by stalling or cycling on thermal cutout. We measure at the terminals under load specifically to catch this before quoting parts. **Why do you charge a diagnostic hour instead of just quoting a motor?** Because a motor that failed under drag will fail again, and quoting the part without reading the load is how owners buy the same motor twice. The in depth diagnostic is one hour at $285, credited against an authorized repair, and it produces a current curve and a voltage reading that tell you whether the motor is the cause or the casualty. --- Source: https://ocrv.club/rv-slide-out-repair/slide-out-motor-and-gear-repair OCRV Center, 23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887 Phone (949) 799-3387. Email info@ocrvcenter.com. Serving Hacienda Heights and the surrounding area. 18.4 miles, 24 to 38 minutes via SR-60 west to Fullerton Rd, then south to La Palma Ave. In shop work only. All estimates are priced and credited against an authorized repair.