# Water Pump and Valve Repair: Cost, Hours and Process in Hacienda Heights Water pump and valve repair covers the 12 volt demand pump, its pressure switch and accumulator, the low point drains, the bypass and the shutoff valves around it. A pump that cycles on its own is almost never a failed pump. It is a small leak or a worn pressure switch telling you something. ## Specifications - Price band: $400 to $1,800 - Shop hours: 2 to 8 hours - Turnaround tier: Systems and electrical - Insurance billable: no - Parts lead time: Pumps, switches, accumulators and valves in stock or 3 to 7 business days. - OEM brands: Shurflo, Aquajet, Dometic, Lippert, Valterra ## Short cycling is a message, not a pump failure A demand pump runs until the pressure switch is satisfied and then stops. If it starts again a few minutes later with everything closed, pressure went somewhere. That is either a leak in the system or a pressure switch that has drifted, and the first is far more common. So a short cycling complaint is a leak investigation, and we treat it as one. The system gets pressure tested and narrowed by branch. Replacing the pump on a short cycling complaint is a repair that produces a new pump doing exactly the same thing, and it happens all the time. The second cause worth naming is the toilet. A ball seal weeping slightly bleeds pressure into the black tank silently, which is invisible, odorless and looks exactly like a mystery. It is one of the first things we isolate. - A small leak anywhere in the pressurized system, the most common cause - A weeping toilet ball seal bleeding pressure into the black tank - A pressure switch that has drifted out of its band - A failed or waterlogged accumulator no longer damping the cycle - A city water inlet check valve leaking back out the inlet - A cracked pump head or a weeping inlet fitting ## Noise, pulsing and what an accumulator actually does A demand pump is a positive displacement diaphragm pump and it is inherently pulsatile. Noise complaints are usually mounting rather than pump: the pump bolted hard to a floor panel transmits every pulse into the structure and the cabinetry amplifies it. The fixes are unglamorous and effective. Isolate the pump on rubber mounts rather than solid ones, use short flexible connectors on both the inlet and the outlet so the rigid plumbing is not a sounding board, and fit an accumulator downstream. An accumulator is a small pressurized vessel that stores a little water under pressure. It smooths the pulse, reduces cycling on small draws, and makes the system noticeably quieter and more pleasant at a faucet. On coaches without one it is the single best value upgrade on the water system, and if we are already in there for a pump it is an hour of additional labor. ## Cost, hours and the strainer nobody checks This is one of the tightest bands in the program. Labor is 2 to 8 hours at the posted mechanical and electrical rate of $260 per hour, parts are stocked or 3 to 7 business days, and the estimate tier is the RV systems estimate at $150, credited against an authorized repair. Before any of that, the inlet strainer. A pump that runs and delivers little or nothing very often has a strainer packed with sediment, tank liner debris or sand from a fill at a dusty site. That is a fifteen minute item and we check it first every time. The other cheap answer is a suction side air leak. A demand pump cannot pull through a loose inlet fitting, and the symptom is a pump that sounds like it is running dry with a full tank. Tightening or replacing an inlet fitting has resolved plenty of complaints that arrived here expecting a new pump. ## Not included - Winterizing the pump and lines for storage belongs to our maintenance program. - We do not replace pumps at a customer location. Pressure testing is bay work. - Whole system repiping is quoted under fresh water system repair rather than here. ## Questions **Why does my RV water pump keep cycling on and off?** Because pressure is escaping somewhere. That is almost always a small leak rather than a failed pump, and a weeping toilet ball seal bleeding into the black tank is a common invisible culprit. A drifted pressure switch or a waterlogged accumulator can do it too. We pressure test and narrow by branch, because a new pump will short cycle identically. **The pump runs but almost no water comes out. What is that?** Check the inlet strainer first. Sediment, tank liner debris or sand from a fill at a dusty site packs it, and it is a fifteen minute item. Second is a suction side air leak, because a demand pump cannot pull through a loose inlet fitting. Both are cheap and both get checked before anyone talks about a replacement pump. **Why is my RV water pump so loud?** Usually the mounting rather than the pump. A demand pump is inherently pulsatile, and bolting it hard to a floor panel turns the structure into a speaker. Rubber isolators, short flexible connectors on the inlet and outlet, and an accumulator downstream address it. The difference is dramatic and the labor is modest. **Is an accumulator tank worth adding?** On a coach without one, it is the best value item on the water system. It stores a small volume under pressure, which smooths the pulse, cuts cycling on small draws and makes a faucet behave like a house faucet. If we already have the bay open for a pump, it is roughly an additional hour of labor. --- Source: https://ocrv.club/rv-service/water-pump-and-valve-repair OCRV Center, 23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887 Phone (949) 799-3387. Email info@ocrvcenter.com. Serving Hacienda Heights and the surrounding area. 18.4 miles, 24 to 38 minutes via SR-60 west to Fullerton Rd, then south to La Palma Ave. In shop work only. All estimates are priced and credited against an authorized repair.